San Antonio – by Gary

 

The traditional inner-city shopping area of San Antonio is located on Joana Bezerra Island, right in the heart of Old-Recife. The area is a maze of narrow cobbled streets and small squares fronted by churches, and it’s packed with shops, stalls, and roving vendors selling everything imaginable.  While the upper and middle classes have abandoned the area in-favour of flashy suburban malls, San Antonion is where the 'ordinary folks' still shop (by the zillion) - its distinctly Brazillian/Portuguese flavour is wonderful.

San Antonio is a maze of cobbled streets.  The guy in front is selling CDs, which you can sample on his ‘system’.

It’s full of shops, stalls ...

... and street vendors...

... not to mention shoppers ...

...all jostling for space.

There are many squares fronted by churches ...

.... some grand...

... some even grander.

  

... but this was my favourite.  It is, by comparison with most, tiny, and situated on a triangular block formed within the ‘y’ intersection of two narrow streets.

This is the view from just inside the door.  It only has seating for perhaps 50 – 60 people on the ground floor.

The altar has an amazing verticality for such a tiny space.

And to create some more seating (select seating for the white folks), a balcony surrounds the altar.

The charming fresco on the ceiling.

_ _ _

Recife Island – by Gary

The city of Recife was first established on two islands straddling the mouth of the Rio Capibaribe and the Beberibe rivers.  The traditional financial functions of the CBD and the port area were located on Recife Island while shopping located on the adjacent Joana Bezerra Island. The many bridges linking these islands to each other and the mainland sometimes result in the city being referred to as the Venice of Brazil.

Recife Island includes a remarkable assemblage of fine old public and private buildings, many of which after many years of decline, have or are in the process of being renovated.  There is an excellent craft market at Marco Zero (the centre of town) that is more like an art gallery, with a very high quality of presentation and featuring talented local artists.  On Sunday afternoons and evenings the old town has a large outdoor craft market, food stalls, alfresco bars and dining areas, music and special events.

One Sunday evening we went to town with the Emily Graces and enjoyed a splendid meal together.  We Mojombos shared four traditional Brazilian dishes – our favourite one featured beef jerky, a Brazilians staple.

One of the city’s finest oldies!

Much of the old building stock has been lovingly renovated.

It is so European!

I love the little wrought iron balconies.

Many buildings still await renovation.

I thought the indoor craft market was sensationally presented...

.... and some pieces were stunning.

Live music on a Sunday arvo.

A street-food vendor.

Beer o’clock.  The Emily Graces are (left to right) Emily Grace, Kim and Tom.

Marco Zero as the sun goes down...

... and after dark.  Many of the buildings are splendidly illuminated.

Vicki and Kim, all grins between gnawing on some beef jerky.  Evenings are about the only time the temperature is really pleasant, but unfortunately much of the city is unsafe for tourists once night falls.

_ _ _

Sunday is Bicycle Day – by Gary

 One of the nicest things about Recife is that every Sunday they create a long linear bike path through the city (it goes right past the yacht club). They do it properly, closing off an entire lane with witches hats, manning intersections with traffic wardens - and the people of Recife turn out in there hundreds to go bike riding.  It’s a wonderful way to see the old city and the beaches.  We loved it!

An entire lane is closed off with witches hats...

... intersections are regulated by traffic wardens ...

.... and the folks of Recife go bike riding.

Bicycle day is a great way to explore the city.

Marco Zero (the waterfront at the centre of town), early in the morning when it is still quiet.

Marco Zero as the day gets going.

The beach early in the morning when it is still quiet...

... and Tai Chi class is still in full swing...

... while Brazil’s future soccer champions practice their moves ...

The local entrepreneurs are busy preparing for another day’s business.

A bit later on in the day – set up for business and waiting for customers.

... alas, some get behind in their work.

_ _ _

Olinda – by Gary

In 1492 Columbus is credited by many with ‘discovering’ America by arriving in the already settled Caribbean which he continued to confuse with China - even after sailing there from Spain three more times!  Notwithstanding his (and others) mistakes his voyages sparked great European interest in the ‘New World’ and its colonisation.

As a result the Brazilian coast was explored by the Portuguese navigator Pedro Cabral soon after in the year 1500. Pedro commanded an entire fleet and claimed Brazil in Portugal’s name.  European diseases brought by the fleet quickly spread in the indigenous ‘Indian’ populations, decimating their numbers.  The Pernambuco province, within which current day Recife stands, was found ideal for sugar cane production, and the European settlers soon established an industry.  But alas, the surviving local Indians were found unsuitable for enslaving into the manual work of the industry, so the importing of vast numbers of Africans was commenced (and not abandoned until 1888, Brazil being the last western nation to abolish slavery).

The town of Olinda was founded in 1537, sugar cane cultivation fuelling its rapid growth as the administrative centre of Pernambuco.  Many splendid churches, monasteries and convents were built in the town, the Portuguese displaying considerable proselytising zeal.  The Dutch invaded and occupied the region from 1630 to 1654, comprehensively sacking and burning Olinda and establishing the new, planned administrative centre of Recife nearby.  When the Dutch departed the Portuguese rebuilt Olinda and for many years great rivalry existed between the two towns.  Recife gradually eclipsed its rival and in 1827 (5 years after independence) became the capital of the province.

Today Recife is a large bustling city of over 1.5 million people, and Olinda has been absorbed within its urban sprawl.  However Olinda still retains much of the fabric of the town rebuilt by the Portuguese colonizers in the 18th C.  Its largely intact mix of traditional houses, gardens, grand baroque churches and tiny chapels resulted in the area being inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.  It is, without doubt, the region’s most important tourism asset.

Looking across Olinda from atop the highest hill in the town; the centre of Recife can be seen in the background

Located on top of this hill is the church and seminary of Our Lady of Grace, reckoned to be Brazil’s finest example of Jesuit architecture of the 16thC and one of the oldest buildings in Olinda.  It was extensively rebuilt in 1661 following its torching by the Dutch.

The Igreja da Misericórdia – the Church of Mercy was first built in 1540 and despite being largely destroyed by the Dutch, retains its original facade.  This church is also located on Olinda’s big hill and the congregation usually ascend to it via the Ladeira da Misericórdia (Ladder of Mercy), which is the cobbled street and stairs in the foreground.

The most impressive of Olinda’s 20 odd churches, the Mosteiro de São Bento - Monastery of Saint Benedict.

Built by the Benedictines late in the 16thC – the monastery is also one of the oldest buildings in Olinda!.

The alter is fabulously intricately carved and gilded timber.

We also visited the Museum of Sacred Art, which has some vivid pieces!

Wow!

But in case you’re wondering, Olinda is much more than just churches!

Many of the houses are small, simple and stand shoulder to shoulder.

Most appear to have been recently renovated and feature dazzling paint jobs.

We glimpsed cool sanctuary in the internal volumes of some of the bigger houses...

...and quiet tranquil charm...

... while outside it was HOT! We struggled from one shady spot to the next.

Public art is scattered through the town...

... some of it quirky....

... and there were several high quality art/craft galleries.

_ _ _