S/V Mojombo: Mauritius – Our first African State

Mauritius was made first, and then heaven;
heaven being copied after Mauritius

Mark Twain

While officially extinct we managed to capture these three unlikely survivors outside the Museum of Natural History. As you can see one was manacled, so it was an easy shot!

History

‘Discovered’ by the Arabs, but unpopulated when the first Europeans arrived, the history of this tiny Indian Ocean dot involves the usual suspects; the Portuguese (didn’t stay), the Dutch (stayed a while) and the English (stayed longest), but with a few new angles for added interest.

1. The French

The Dutch abandoned the island in 1710, making way for the arrival of the French in 1715. After a slow start they developed a thriving seaport servicing without prejudice the needs of merchantmen, privateers (i.e. pirates) and navies working the SE Asia trade route.

2. Slavery

The Dutch were the first to bring African slaves to Mauritius, a practice both the French and the English continued. Plentiful cheap labour was required to work the island’s developing sugar plantations (initially cropped just for rum production to supply visiting ships). Today people of black African descent make up about 27% of the population.

3. Epic Tall-Ship Naval Battles

The strategic value of the islands for English empire building was too great and after a series of skirmishes in 1810 a fleet of three English ships invaded the east coast port of Marbourg. A three day pitched battle ensued with the French eventually victorious. But the English were quick to return, this time in an armada of 70 ships with 15,000 combatants aboard. French defenses were completely overwhelmed – the English colonial era had begun.

4. The English Influence (or lack thereof)

Despite almost 160 years of British colonial rule the stamp of mother England upon the local population remains remarkably light. The speaking of the English language is a past-time usually reserved for certain foreign tourists, notwithstanding it being the official language (parliament is even conducted in French!). The indelible influences of the English are more subtle but include:

the dominant industry – an aerial view of the island reveals a vast monoculture – sugar. The current technology of large scale sugar production was largely pioneered by British plantationers and industrialists across her colonial realm and this tiny island still ranks as one of the top 10 sugar exporting nations. It is said that the island’s history is written in sugar.

the high percentage of Mauritians of Indian descent (about 68%). With the abolition of slavery in 1835 the English solved the acute labour shortage in their rapidly developing and highly profitable sugar industry by bringing in Indian indentured labourers – it goes without saying they were treated appallingly and paid peanuts, but they weren’t slaves.

the morning cuppa! Despite the ubiquity of baguettes, camembert and cheek kissing Mauritians still stop for their tea breaks.

The Environment

The nation ranks as a world leader in extinction rates – right up there with Australia. Famously first to go was the Dodo (the Dutch apparently took care of them), followed by the giant tortoise. The wholesale clearance of rain forests, frequent firing, development of the sugar monoculture and introduction of a plethora of weed fauna and flora species (including over 1¼ million people) has left scarce room for nature.

Modern Mauritius

Independence arrived late, in 1968. Perhaps the laggard withdrawal of the Poms was a blessing? By African standards the nation has become an economic powerhouse! With a healthy democracy, only moderate levels of corruption, a functional legal system, good health and education standards and high rates of national and international investment, development is proceeding apace. Construction is visible everywhere including infrastructure, civic, commercial and residential building work. The island supports a huge and bustling tourism sector.

Alas not everybody gets to participate and shanty towns are still in evidence – but for the most part the human population seems to be doing pretty nicely – they’re no dodos that’s for sure!

Left: entering Pt Louis – an eclectic mix of architecture nestled under a stunning backdrop.

Right: a bit of waterfront revitalisation, Le Caudan shop, hotel and marina precinct

Pt Louis’ equivalent of Hobart’s Salamanca Market. Mauritius has one of the highest population densities in the world – in urban areas the density reaches 3000 people per square kilometre.

City Market – a bustle and hustle!

Inside – and oh what beautiful produce, and beautifully presented.

The nation’s Supreme Court precinct, a beautiful colonial oasis.

Mauritians are particularly proud of their philatelic history dedicating two separate museums to it (we reckon one would have been quite enough but you never know what you might miss until you go!). In 1846 the island became the fifth country and first colony to use prepaid stamps. This is the apparently famous original ‘blue penny’. Only 27 of these Blue and Red “Post Office” Pennies are known to survive – they fetch extraordinarily prices!

Black River (Grande Riviera Noir) is the location of the islands most important national park - nominated as a World Heritage site it provides refuge for many of the islands’ threatened species.

Aldabra Giant Tortoise – a close cousin was once native to Mauritius but these monsters, natives of the Seychelles, were on display in a park.

Faces of the Mauritian sugar industry – old and new. As you can see, while we were there much of the crop was in flower – Nina and I constantly had runny noses and the sneezes.

A large beam engine - cutting edge British industrial steam technology quickly put to work in the colonies (the classic columns are a nice touch huh?).