S/V Mojombo: Norfolk

After frantic London we moved on to Norfolk and a change of pace. Staying with a sailing family we met in the Pacific who now live in an old market town near Norwich, we took some time to relax and chill-out with good friends.

July 20
Katie introduced us to the Brit’s Park and Ride system to enjoy an afternoon sightseeing in the city of Norwich. Norwich is rich in history – the Cathedral, Castle and the city centre being our focus.

Norwich Cathedral is a beautiful building and the interior is highly decorated. A visiting choir, practicing in the Cathedral, add to the atmosphere. Outside we are impressed by the size of the cloisters and the size and decoration of the church tower.

From the Cathedral we wander the quaint narrow streets of the city centre toward Norwich Castle. The castle keep is the only surviving building of this once vast Norman castle. The ravages of time have seen the building encroached by the growing town, modified into a goal, damaged by fire and bombs and then finally restored. The building is impressive and the interpretation of Norman history and historical artifacts adds to this richness.

The cathedral’s soaring spire – it was part of a considerable abbey complex.

Vicki and Katie entering the 11th century gate into the former bbey precinct.

The cloisters are the size of a football field.

Some of the inside decoration is surprisingly quirky!

That visiting choir whose voices filled the building.

One of Norwich’s gorgeous streets.

The Castle Keep (now guarded by gorillas).

July 21
Paul has generously lent us his car to use during our visit to the UK. Taking the “B” roads and laneways we head northward past small villages, scattered farm houses and between hedgerows. Our first stop near the coast is Blakeney, which is busy with its annual Regatta. Blakeney is accessed from the sea by a long winding channel that dries at low tide, boats sit on the mud banks and at the staithe. The village has narrow lanes of low houses built in the traditional building materials of the region - sand stone coins and window sill in-filled with rounded flintstone. The weather adds to the atmosphere – low cloud and damp.

Further west we stop at Morston, the river winds around many bends and boats are sitting on the mud. Continuing westward we park the car for a walk on Stiffkey Saltmarshes. The coastline is only a few centimetres above high tide and we are warned to watch for the incoming tide and not to be caught on the wrong side of any deep channels. We head out into the saltmarshes finding a route over several footbridges to the edge of the sea – the sand is exposed for miles at low tide.

At the quaintly named Wells-next-the-Sea we join many Brits and feast on fish and chips. From here it is a short drive to the seaside for a walk along the sandy shore. This beach is famous for its beach huts, which stretch for a mile or two. The weather is bitterly cold but the Brits are in swim suits playing cricket on the sand!

A farm.

Farms, hedgerows and more farms.

Low tide and boats sit on the mud banks and at the staithe (that’s Norfolkese for dock).

Stiffkey Saltmarshes - the sand is exposed for miles at low tide.

Beach-shelters at Wells-next-the-Sea.

July 22, 23, 24
For the next few days we will sail on the Norfolk Broads in Swallows and Amazon style on a traditional sailing boat – no motor!

Arriving at Hunter’s Yard in Ludham we discover we will have a little gaff-rigged sloop called Lullaby, which was the Teasel in the BBC’s 1984 TV Movie Swallows and Amazons Forever! Coot Club based on Arthur Ransom’s book. The Titmouse and the transom of the original Teasel are in the boatshed. Being great fans of Arthur Ransom we wander offer to admire them. Nacho, the family dog, will be our “William” for a true Ransom style outing.

Provisions on board, bedding stowed we are ready to hoist sails. The day is bright and clear and the wind looks like it will be light and may require us to do some quanting (poling). We head off downstream enjoying the quietness on the River Bure. Wind pumps (wind mills) punctuate the landscape, Paul explains how they work. Lunch is at St Benet’s Abbey ruins. Our hunger satisfied we head from the River Thurne into the River Bure, passed Ranworth Broad, through Horning (much bigger than in the Coot Club days) to Sailhouse Broad for the night.

Our anchoring site is across the broad away from most of the motor boats. The advantage of this is the large number of water birds we see, especially coots. Paul, Fin, Zeke and Nacho swim before dinner. Nina draws the short straw and sleeps on the cabin floor, with Zeke and Fin on the aft bunks and Gary and Vicki on the forward bunks. Paul favours the cockpit under the specially designed tent. Nacho enjoys having everyone at face licking level and spends the night sleeping with the children.

The homeward journey starts slowly with a flat calm. Quanting skills are practiced and refined over the next hour or two. Horning provides a welcome drink stop and dog walking opportunity. The high street has probably changed little since Arthur Ransom’s time. Unfortunately the river-side has changed considerably with shoulder to shoulder housing.

Refreshments consumed and back on the river with a light breeze, 15 minutes later we are caught up in high drama when Nacho is swept overboard by the self-tacking jib. Fin had to be restrained from jumping overboard amid general shouting and clamouring. Paul remains cool at the helm and everyone is relieved when Gary drags Nacho back on board.

From Horning the wind held, though on the nose. We tack our way back and forth up the River Bure. We anchor Lullaby near the Ranworth Broad junction for lunch before sailing on to Potter Heigham for the night. The motor boat traffic is courteous and, mostly, patient with our tacking. Dinner is fish and chips from a noted eatery - yum!

Our last day. Gary, Paul and I rise early so that we can use the tide and return Lullaby by the designated time. Gary and Paul take turns to quant all the way to Ludham. At 5.30am it is light but the sun has not risen. Mist is floating on the river and swans and ducks paddle to and fro. Cows are lowing and crows are cawing as the day begins. It is easy to image yourself back in time with Tom in Titmouse and Dot and Dick in Teasel. Breakfast is eaten along-side the staithe in Hunter’s Yard. Nina takes her last opportunity to read as much of the Coot Club as possible before we leave.