Ua Pou – by Gary

  

Approaching from the sea the special-ness of this place quickly became apparent.  The creation myth for the Marquesas pictures each island as a different part of the house in which the people live – Ua Pou is the massive columns supporting that house.

Entering the relative calm of the port of Hakahau, mostly the columns were lost in cloud.

Breaking out in splendid grandeur every now and again the central peak, Mt Oave, at 1,230 m is the highest in the Marquesas.

The Marquesas are sometimes pictured as being a Polynesian culture free zone dominated by the French – but it’s not true, although it nearly was.  But since 1979 a cultural association, the Motu Haka, has set to work vigorously defending the indigenous culture.

The association focuses particularly on retention of language as well as reviving chants, dances, legends, tattoos, ancient sculptures and wood carving.  

The centre piece of the association is a program of art festivals that rotates through the islands.  During each festival ancient sites are renovated – such as this huge ceremonial site (called a tohua) at Hohoi, renovated during the 2007 festival held in Ua Pou.

A new stone ti’i (known by the Polynesians in NZ as a tiki) at the Hohoi tohua.

Emblematic of cultural pride is the wearing of tattoos, some subtle, others more flamboyant....

And the Catholic Church, for so long one of the principle drivers of cultural annihilation, has joined this renaissance movement.  Here the wonderful airy church in Hakahau.

A dazzling celebration of local wood carving skills.

And here, for the tourists, a performance of traditional music making, dance and chanting.

 

We reckon the Motu Haka is doing a pretty good job!

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