Ti’is - by Gary

Ti’is (called Tikis by the Maori) are everywhere in the Marquesas.  There’s one outside the bank, several stand next to the craft centre, they turn up gnome like in people’s front gardens.  What do they mean?  I put the question to Henri, our host at the Taiohae coffee shop where we hang out for internet access.

“Don’t you steal Gary!” he earnestly implored.  He went on to explain to me the fate awaiting a visiting Frenchman who rashly decided to kidnap one.  Even with Henri’s broken English I got a pretty graphic description of this bloke’s declining fortunes until in desperation he sent the Ti’i back home to the Marquesas.

“Well...”  I pondered, “I wasn’t actually intending to nick one... but maybe what your saying is that these Ti’are special to Marquesans...  maybe more than just reminders of the past?”

Henri’s suspicion faded, but only a little.  Eventually he decided to open up and give me a little more...

“Some just decoration!  Most not even old.  But some....”  his eyes rolled in a deep and meaningful way.  “... can be hidden deep in bush, only we know where they are.  These are from old times... powerful!  Hairs stand up on the back of neck when we go visit – spirits live there.  Must be very respectful, otherwise dangerous!  Strong, strong taboo.”

Perhaps sensing my western skepticism Henri confirmed this power had greatest effect over him and his kinsmen.  The likes of me might be affected not at all (unless of course I was stupid enough to steal one).

Henri, coffee shop owner, local government rep, respected elder and sometimes cultural adviser to yours truly.

Recently carved Ti’i decorate the outside of the craft centre.

Ti’i Garden gnomes!  Many Marquesans are quite gifted stone sculptures.

Ti’i car graphic.

 

The real, hair standing on end thing?  This large (about 1.8m high) old and well weathered Ti’i  is located in the bush above Taipivai.

But here is my favourite Ti’i.  This site stands next to the catholic cathedral in Taiohae - it’s a memorial to one of the island’s past bishops. As you can see, the bishop didn’t quite manage to wipe out paganism.

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Hakatea Bay – by Gary

It was a long-weekend this last one past and with shiny new engine mounts and a fresh oil change under our belt a decision was reached to flee the bright city lights and get away for a couple of days.  We made the hour-long passage SW from Taiohae to the next big bay round – Hakatea.  While so close it seemed a world away, providing an amazing glimpse back into another time.  Experts estimate that at first contact perhaps 20,000 people lived in the long valley above the bay including King Te Moana and Queen Vaekehu.  Today only a handful of folks remain in this most spectacular place – standing guard over an archeological treasure trove, testimony to the advanced material culture of traditional Polynesian society.

Accompanying us for the weekend were brothers Romuald and Gaetan, both boat kids.  Talk about a boat full of rowdy young teenagers.  We all got on really well together.

The Hakatea Bay anchorage is partially surrounded by startling basalt cliffs...

... and its not just the cliffs that are startling – check-out the ear lobe of our reception committee.  He invited us back to his house for grapefruit!

Situated on the shorefront estuary of a river, the village of Hakaui consists of a few small houses and a tiny, tiny church.

One of the principle attractions of Hakatea Bay is the two-hour trek following the course of the ancient ‘Royal Road’ up the valley to Vaipo Waterfall.  To beat the heat we set off early in the morning, under the watchful eye of a local.

The carefully detailed road itself is a very impressive undertaking, and along the way we also saw many house platforms, ceremonial sites, pits (for storing breadfruit???) and tikis.

The steep valley sides gradually closed in on us.  Rising on both side of the fast flowing river the walls are sometimes almost 800m high.

Our first vista of the waterfall – plunging 350m into a deep canyon, it’s the highest in French Polynesia.

Sadly this is as close as we got before getting lost!  We wandered around the bush for about an hour trying to pick up the track – oh well.

We were tired and foot sore by the time we made it back – but it was a great walk.

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Eo Himene – a Marquesan Music Festival – by Vicki

Musical talent abounds in these islands and over two recent evenings we were treated to a fabulous concert featuring a diverse range of styles mostly sung in French and Marquesan with the occasional English and Russian song. This was definitely not a show for the tourists, but a celebration of the musical life of the Marquesas, performed for the benefit of Marquesans.  The event is free and well attended by a wide cross-section of the local population.

The Traditional Program
The festival began with a show of traditional Marquesan singing and dance. It was a feast for the senses and they were dressed to impress. As the darkness deepened the centre of the tohua was cleared. Shadows moved to edge of the arena’s lights and then strode purposefully in singing and beating short sticks in time with the drums. What followed was an energetic and athletic display.

Body art, head feathers, and necklaces of boar tusks adorned the men.

Strong back-lighting gave the performance a mystical, warriors around the ‘campfire’ feel.

 

Stomping and aggressive arm movements typified the men’s dancing.

As the show progressed the drummers enter a zone of their own.

The women’s performance, while much less aggressive, was joyful and energetic. First they sat in formation on the ground singing in crescendos accompanied by thigh slapping and circular arm movements. Then three young women adorned with feathers joined them dancing in a more gentle style, and reminiscent of Western ballet, dancing on tiptoe.

Head wreaths, necklaces and skirts made from local vegetation adorned the women.

Short tiptoe steps and smooth, graceful arm movements typified their dancing.

The Modern Music Program
After a short intermission the modern musical program begins. Modern instruments appear between the giant tikis each side of a stage. This is a modern high tech operation; sound and light technicians go through their checks...and then it is on with the show.

Marquesan crooners, 80s and 90s rock, hip-hop, hard rock, reggae, digital music and more. The musicians come from all walks of life and their love of music shines through.

People in the crowd.

Modern musicians dressed in casual black are accompanied by a woman dancing in a modern Marquesan style.

Zeke’s Spanish teacher wearing a different hat.

A group of popular Taiohae musicians. The electric ukulele caught our attention

 
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Max, a long-stay yachtie, and an amazing musician was in his element.

 

Mum and daughter enjoying the show.

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Horses – by Gary

The French admiral Dupetit-Thouars is reputed responsible for the introduction of the horse to the islands of the Marquesas in 1842. He was responsible for a number of significant changes in these parts – being the bloke who, in 1841 after a brief scuffle with the Tahitian queen and the British consul, snatched possession of the Marquesas, Tuamotus and the Society Islands as French protectorate.  But back to those horses - I’m sure they were quickly attractive to the locals – the additional mobility and load carrying ability offered would have undoubtedly made life easier. And I’m guessing the steepness of the terrain and the narrow, muddy, slippery tracks favoured horses of small stature and strength.

Evidently the environment proved very favourable to the animals as well because at least one island now supports numbers of wild horses – with inevitable environmental repercussions – though I’d reckon it’s still modest when compared to the damage caused by feral goats and sheep.

In the current era horse ownership remains surprisingly high, even while practically every Marquesan family owns at least one flash, new four-wheel drive.  Horses are everywhere.

Any grassy patch around town is a good place to tether a horse – and they are pretty efficient lawn mowers.

Partaking a brisk, joyful gallop in the coolness of the late afternoon.  The horses are small, compact and strong.

I reckoned this gentleman walking his horses through town to be particularly photogenic.

I have seen this woman astride her donkey on several early mornings.  I am guessing she is on her way out of town to tend her garden patch.

The impetus for such a high level of horse ownership remains a bit unclear, but I’m guessing for many it’s simply about the pleasure.

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