Ti’is - by Gary

Ti’is (called Tikis by the Maori) are everywhere in the Marquesas.  There’s one outside the bank, several stand next to the craft centre, they turn up gnome like in people’s front gardens.  What do they mean?  I put the question to Henri, our host at the Taiohae coffee shop where we hang out for internet access.

“Don’t you steal Gary!” he earnestly implored.  He went on to explain to me the fate awaiting a visiting Frenchman who rashly decided to kidnap one.  Even with Henri’s broken English I got a pretty graphic description of this bloke’s declining fortunes until in desperation he sent the Ti’i back home to the Marquesas.

“Well...”  I pondered, “I wasn’t actually intending to nick one... but maybe what your saying is that these Ti’are special to Marquesans...  maybe more than just reminders of the past?”

Henri’s suspicion faded, but only a little.  Eventually he decided to open up and give me a little more...

“Some just decoration!  Most not even old.  But some....”  his eyes rolled in a deep and meaningful way.  “... can be hidden deep in bush, only we know where they are.  These are from old times... powerful!  Hairs stand up on the back of neck when we go visit – spirits live there.  Must be very respectful, otherwise dangerous!  Strong, strong taboo.”

Perhaps sensing my western skepticism Henri confirmed this power had greatest effect over him and his kinsmen.  The likes of me might be affected not at all (unless of course I was stupid enough to steal one).

Henri, coffee shop owner, local government rep, respected elder and sometimes cultural adviser to yours truly.

Recently carved Ti’i decorate the outside of the craft centre.

Ti’i Garden gnomes!  Many Marquesans are quite gifted stone sculptures.

Ti’i car graphic.

 

The real, hair standing on end thing?  This large (about 1.8m high) old and well weathered Ti’i  is located in the bush above Taipivai.

But here is my favourite Ti’i.  This site stands next to the catholic cathedral in Taiohae - it’s a memorial to one of the island’s past bishops. As you can see, the bishop didn’t quite manage to wipe out paganism.

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